So when this is applied, this will first of all act as a solvent to the contamination and the oil or grease will combine with the coating. Waxoyl and my own Before 'n After improved Waxoyl and my more formulated coating which I call CR, all contain around 70% white spirit. (Oil and grease are the original rustproofing). I am quite sure though that waxoyl and my CR will penetrate any oil or grease contamination and form an effective anti-corrosive amalgam with it. How well any of them will penetrate oil contamination and form an amalgam with it I'm not really sure. It's unclear exactly what is in the bewildering array of different Dinitor products.Waxoyl penetrates and combines with any contamination.Waxoyl, and my similar, more formulted CR coating, are petrochemicals very similar to oil and grease from leaking seals of mechanical parts on the underbody. So you are very likely to have the nightmare scenario of an ineffective, poorly adhering coating sitting between the rusty surface and any coating of rustproofing wax, making the rustproofing wax totally ineffectual. On oil or grease contaminated areas, unless the underside is extremely thoroughly cleaned, degreased, and then completely dried, the rust converter will not work. Oil and grease contamination will prevent the conversion First of all, a lot of the the underneath of most cars, especially Land Rovers, is contaminated with oil and grease from leaking oil seals etc.I'm now going to tell you why we don't use them and neither should you. Both Dinitrol with its rc800 and Hammerite Products with their Kurust sell rust convertors.
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